WHW Custom SG build process - Members - Home  
 
- The Story
 
After a couple decades as a loyal Gibson player exclusively (as evidenced by the 10+ Gibson guitars currently in the "guitarsenal"), I've come to the conclusion that while they are generally aesthetically superior to most other guitars and capable of producing tones that are instantly recognizable as well as extremely heavy, I've encountered a few significant problems with them, namely:
 
  1. The "set-in" necks can be rather fragile as evidenced by the tragic night in Rotterdam, Holland where after we played, my classic white SG custom (my main WHW guitar from 1992-2004 that was used for every recording and concert up to that point) fell face down on stage, resulting in a horrible crack around the entirety of the neck joint.

    Upon later closer inspection, it was revealed that said cracks protruded even further into the neck pickup cavity, which was even more gutting as it was then I realized the only hope for repairing the guitar involved literally breaking the neck off and the re-setting it - with no assurance she'd ever be the same (as far as intonation, tuning stability, sustain, etc.) and zero chance we'd ever manage to repair her cosmetically (with extensive use in different environments, finishes age into shades only time can ever reproduce).

    While ultimately I was in fact able to repair her, this whole traumatic experience revealed a severe design "flaw" with my favorite guitar: the proximity of the neck to the pickup cavity, and subsquent fragility of the neck being glued or "set-in" there.

    Further, I've come to learn that not only are bolt-on necks far more durable and secure, they also allow for a tighter connection to the body than set-in necks, therefore increasing the sustain!

    Also, if there's a problem with a set neck (or even neck through!), you're essentially screwed if something extreme happens to it, whereas a bolt-on can simply be removed and replaced, if it even is damaged to begin with!


  2. For as long as I can remember, we've been tuning our guitars down 2 steps or more (primarily because Sabbath tuned down and secondly because C minor is one of our favorite keys). While this does create a deep, heavy and somewhat unique sound and despite the fact thousands of guitarists have been doing this for years, the bottom line is guitars with a 24 3/4" (629mm) scale are simply not designed for this (I know, that should be obvious right?).

    While we managed to do this with varying degrees of success over the years (by using heavier and heavier string gauges, raising the action, etc.), there were still always some problems with tuning stability and some degree of fret buzz.

    I know some of you will say "why don't you just get a 7-string?" - and that's a reasonable suggestion except that most 7-strings are wimpy nu-metal guitars made out of thin wood with "modern" electronics, thus unacceptable for this "purist" and secondly, I'm just not comfortable with a wider neck after all these years. Sure, I could adapt, but why should I change the way I play from what I'm used to?

    Thus, I started exploring the baritone guitar market (these guitars generally have a longer scale of 28" or more and are traditionally tuned B-B or 2 1/2 steps down from standard), only to discover the options were limited. The pros however are they have incredible resonance and sustain, and are tonally darker (all because of the longer scale I imagine) which is appropriate for WHW.

    I did in fact procure a couple Gibson Les Paul Studio Baritones (which have now been discontinued, have the same damn set necks as aforementioned, and do NOT feature the top notch craftsmanship of Gibson Customs), as well as a couple Fender Jaguar Baritone HH specials (built solid, but ugly and mid-level quality in terms of craftsmanship), but once again I found myself having to compromise on my preferred details (like woods, finishes, electronics, etc.).


  3. Lastly, while I won't single out any one manufacturer here, I will say that the MAJOR corporations are indeed all about quantity vs. quality, and they do cut corners or charge outrageous amounts for customized details. Also, despite having had legit orders in place via the store in which I teach, select models were discontinued and the companies REFUSED to fill my orders! So, basically that was the final straw.

    It was at this point were I reached the conclusion that the ONLY solution for my guitar problems was to go 100% custom from now on.

Thus, I began doing Internet research on luthiers and custom guitar companies only to find that most were not set up to build baritone models because they do a lot of machine work and tooling, plus frankly the demand for baritones isn't that great outside of some surf rockers and eccentrics (which is surprising in this era of "Nu" and "Extreme" this and that, but I digress.....)
 
Finally (and somewhat randomly), I happened upon the website for Onyx Forge Guitars in California and could not believe what I was reading. Specifically it was this section:
 
  • Get the guitar that you always wanted but couldn't have because nobody makes one.
  • Hand made, top quality custom made instruments at reasonable prices - inquire now - you won't know unless you ask
  • Any shape body – including one of your own design. Left or right handed - nearly endless combinations of body / neck / hardware choices
  • Custom necks to any scale - want a short scale Tele(r) style guitar with stainless steel frets? Many combinations of widths, woods, fret sizes and profiles possible
  • 6, 7, and 12 string standard, baritone, fretted and fretless bass guitars to your specifications. How about a double neck baritone / standard guitar?
  • I work with clients to design the perfect instrument for them that just cannot be bought off the shelf. Hand built, yet considerably less expensive than the custom shops of Fender and Gibson
  • Weekly progress reports with pictures are sent to you via email
  • Exotic hardwoods to your spec. There's more to life than alder and ash
  • Custom composite string nuts - made of laminated brass & bone (also Corian, Slipstone, etc) for decades of durability. Outstanding playability, phrasing, sustain and tone
  • Top quality OEM or aftermarket magnetic, piezo or MIDI pickups - including Fender, Seymour Duncan, Shadow, EMG (active or passive), L.R. Baggs piezo, DiMarzio, etc. Custom or OEM knobs and switches
  • How about installing your coveted pickups in a new axe?
  • Custom dyes and paints - specializing in aniline dyes and nitrocellulose lacquer finishes
  • Custom switching to your specifications
  • Vintage cloth wiring a specialty
  • Stainless steel hardware – Polished 18-8 Stainless Steel vintage (slot) or modern (Phillips) hardware
  • Metal threaded neck inserts on all bolt neck guitars for a rock solid body / neck interface. Guaranteed to meet or beat set neck and neck through guitars in tone and sustain
  • One piece, neck through and set neck construction as well
  • Noise reduction - all routed and drilled pockets are double coated with conducting paint and grounded for the elimination of unwanted noise caused by external electrical lights / equipment. The coating also includes the back of pickguards and control plates Custom setups, including fret leveling /crowning / polishing, truss rod adj., string height, nut height / cutting
  • New Customs come with a limited 10 year transferable Warranty, unlike virtually all major guitar manufacturers
  • 10 day return policy on most instruments
Needless to say, I was stunned by what I'd just read and my mind was running wild with ideas/possibilities! I hammered out a quick email with questions regarding my "ideal" axe, and literally within minutes I received a phone call back from the man behind Onyx Forge Guitars, Roy Bullis, who happened to be online when I sent my mail.
 
My initial reaction was "now THIS is customer service" (even though I wasn't a customer just yet!). I found Roy to be very personable, knowledgeable and above all understanding of my plight with other guitar manufacturers and my having had to compromise all along the way. The bottom line here is Roy told me that what I wanted was ABSOLUTELY do-able, and we discussed a few details to improve upon my initial concept.
 
Within an hour I had a full spec sheet sitting in my inbox based upon our discussion that day; between our discussion and the attention to detail in the spec sheet, I came to the conclusion relatively quickly that Onyx Forge Guitars were the way to go for me.
 
After a couple weeks of trading countless emails (I've never really experienced this degree of customer service/interaction before!) and several revisions to the original spec sheet, we eventually came up with my ultimate custom guitar (as of 2006 anyway!): the Onyx Forge WHW Baritone SG Custom! Here are the exact specs of this 100% custom instrument:
 
BODY

Body Style: SG
Type Of Wood: Tiger Maple
Drop Top/Carved Top - No
Contouring: Belly contour - front bevels per SG. Custom sculpted heel with recessed chrome neck screw ferrules
Chambered: No
Finish: Custom Cobalt/Purpleburst (cobalt interior to purple to trans black, front and back)
Binding: No
Bridge Type: LR Baggs Piezo TuneOMatic style - 2 1/16" spacing
Tailpiece: Stop
Through Body Stringing: N/A
String Ferrules: No
Pickguard: No
Straplocks/buttons: Dunlop Straplock - chrome
Jack: 1/4" Stereo/mono in recessed Electrosocket, side mounted

 
HARDWARE/FINISH MATERIAL
Fasteners: All screws polished 18-8 stainless steel
Control plate/cover: Back cover - .09" black plastic
Knobs: Black speed knobs (Gibson)
Bridge: Chrome
Tailpiece: Chrome
Jack: Polished aluminum alloy
String Ferules: N/A
 
PICKUPS
Neck: Gibson 496R ceramic, black (Chromed nickel cover installed at Onyx Forge)
Bridge: Gibson 500T ceramic, black (Chromed nickel cover installed at Onyx Forge)
Piezo Bridge: LR Baggs Piezo "TuneOMatic" style bridge with Control X onboard preamp for mixing/isolating piezo and magnetic output Pickup Color/Covers: Chromed Nickel
Mounting Rings: Custom Macassar Ebony
 
NECK
Neck Construction: Bolt Neck Baritone, 13 degree tilt headstock with Onyx Forge 3/side headstock, zinc alloy threaded inserts
Neck Wood: Flame Maple
Fretboard Wood: 1st Grade Macassar Ebony with WHW logo centered on 12th fret in Paua abalone, no other markers
Number Of Frets: 22
Zero Fret: No
Scale Length: 28"
Profile: "C" with rolled edges
Binding: No
Headstock Binding: No
Fretboard Radius: 12"
Nut Width: 1 11/16" (1.69")
Nut Material/Type: Custom laminated Graphtech/brass alloy
Fretwire Material: Stainless Steel
Fretwire Size: Medium Jumbo
Tuning Machines: Grover full size locking post 18:1 ratio - chrome
String Tee/Guide: No
Threaded Inserts: Threaded zinc alloy
Truss Rod: Custom length, double acting adjustable at headstock
Truss Rod Cover: Onyx Forge shape, Macassar Ebony
Peg Head/Logo: Flame Maple 3/side Onyx Forge with Paua abalone logo
Head Plate: No
Finish: Cobalt/Purpleburst to match body under satin nitrocellulose laquer on back of neck/headstock. Shoot gloss nitro on headstock face.
Fretboard Markers: No - WHW logo at 12th fret only - readable from the bridge
Side Marker Dots: 2mm Paua abalone
 
SWITCHING
LR Baggs Control X preamp with 3 Way to toggle/mix between Piezo bridge and humbuckers. Uses master pot to fade between mags and piezo with switch in center position. Switchable to mono or stereo output via stereo jack and "Y" cable. Stereo/mono switch to be accessable from front of guitar (push/pull)
 
TONE/VOLUME CONTROLS
Piezo: volume with control board for mixing with standard pickups
Humbuckers: one balance/blend pot with master volume and tone pots. Vol/Tone pots are push/pull that when pulled split each of the humbuckers
 
WIRING
Modern and vintage cloth with grounded conducting paint in all pockets and channels
 
CASE
Unitec custom "Ultra" ATA Rated case, extruded ABS, plush recessed interior fitted for this guitar
 
Upon my approval of these specs (and of course receipt of my downpayment), Roy started "making sawdust" immediately, and consistantly maintained a high degree of interaction with me, sending email updates weekly with photos throughout the build process, which I am going to share with you here!
 

 
- The Build Process:
 
Update 12/2/2006
Body: The top and front edges of the body have been quarter rounded to prepare for hand beveling / contouring where required. The figure is visible, but will pop out much more after being shot with lacquer. The control locations have been set, and the body is prepared for routing out the control cavity / cover indent

Neck: The neck has been machined for the truss rod, and is ready to be cut out and partially shaped in prep for the fretboard.
 
 
Neck Blank & Body
Body Front
Body Back
 

 
Update 12/9/2006
Body: As indicated on the attached, have just finished most of the machining on the body prior to hand carving the belly contour and "SG" bevels. I've included a couple of shots of how the wiring access hole is drilled for the Piezo bridge. It's a bit tricky in that it's angled downward toward the bridge at a little of 1 degree to get the correct depth under the bridge.Still have to carve the heel and drill the recesses for the neck screw ferrules. There will be some additional machining in the control pocket to set the proper face thickness for each control pot.

Neck: Pre shaped, drilled, inserts installed, aligned with the body and is almost ready for fretboard lamination. More detail as we go on that regarding further shaping.
 
Drilling for Piezo Wiring Drilling for Piezo Wiring
Bridge & Stopbar Drilling & Fitup Body & Neck Heel Back
Neck Alignment Overall Front
Headstock & Truss Rod Neck Back
 

 
Update 12/16/2006
Body: These pics were taken right after final machining and hand carving the bevels / belly contour. All of the pots / controls have been fitted such that the face thickness accommodates the pot / switch shaft lengths, as well as the 9V battery and Piezo summing card.

Neck: The neck looks about the same as last week, as I'm still waiting for the fretboard. I believe it will ship next week.

After the fretboard is laminated to the neck, a full fitup will be done. The entire guitar is assembled, but not wired. Any adjustments are then made for fitup, the guitar is disassembled and final shaped / sanded. After that point, it's time to shoot some nitrocellulose lacquer. There is a small void within the brownish spot on the back. Don't worry, that will fill fine and will look great.

Next week I'll trace an outline of the body and send it to Unitec to have them make the custom fit ATA case for this guitar / neck length.
 
Overall Back Oblique Back Bevel Det
Back Cutout Bevels Front Oblique Pocket
Front Top Bevel Overall Front
Overall Back
 

 
Update 12/23/2006
Here's a bunch of pics I took Friday after working the neck. Starting to come together and look a little bit like a custom guitar. I have another day of work to install the frets and to lam / shape / cut a nut. After that, I'll completely fit up and assemble the entire guitar except for stringing and wiring. That includes making and fitting the Ebony PUP rings and truss rod cover, fitting the tuning machines, etc. It's then disassembled, final sanded, and finishing begins.
 
Neck Lam Logo Det
Overall Fretboard from Heel Neck Overall Front
Headstock Front Neck Overall Back
Headstock Back Joint Det Naptha Logo Det
Overall Front from Body Overall Front from Headstock
Front Body and Neck Joint Overall Back from Body
Neck Joint Det Overall Back from Headstock
Overall Back
 

 
Update 12/30/2006
The coming week it will be final sanded / detailed and the first coats of nitro applied. It's hard to see, but the stereo / mono button is black, and is surrounded by a front flush chrome ferrule. It's set up such that it will be out of the way, yet easily switchable. When it's pushed in, its just about flush with the top (mono).
 
Headstock Front Headstock Back
Body Front Control det
Body back from neck Wiring
TRC nut det Body front cutaway det
Overall front from headstock
Overall front from body
 

 
Update 1/7/2007
No pics this week. The body and neck have been shot with the first 9 coats of nitro and sanded. Another 9 will be shot, color sanded, and the dye will be applied, as well as the logo, serial no's, etc. before the last 18 - 27 coats of nitro.

Nitro goes on very thin. The first coats are wet sanded to a fairly high degree of smoothness, and about 85% of the nitro is actually removed after the first 9 coats. As a matter of fact, there are a few small spots on the body that have been taken back down to the original surface. Successive coats are smoother, so less finish is removed. The end product will dry such that the actual mil thickness of finish is as thin or thinner than a factory applied polyester job.
 

 
Update 1/12/2007
Here are some pics taken today after shooting multiple dye layers in 3 colors and only 1 clear coat. It's VERY difficult to take pics and have them come out looking like they do under original conditions. To illustrate, there are 2 identical shots of the headstock. One with flash, the other without. Reality is somewhere in between, but is highly dependent on the color and brightness of the light source illuminating the guitar. The brighter the source, the more evident the red is.

The one thing I can say is that I'm quite happy with the way it turned out. It will improve as the finishing procedure progresses through next week.

Also note that all of the pockets have been coated with conducting paint. The blue dots in the control cavity have been masked so that the lacquer does not insulate those spots.All the control pots / switches will be grounded, and will in turn ground the paint and pull / ground out all spurious radio frequency interference.
 
Body Front Body Back
Headstock Front Headstock Back
Headstock Oblique
(pic taken with flash)
Headstock Oblique
(pic taken without flash)
Neck Back Neck Heel back
 

 
Update 1/19/2007
All but the last round of nitro has been shot on the neck and body. Wet / cold weather has slowed things down just a bit. The last finish coats will be applied this coming week, including the satin nitro on the neck Then the curing period of 10 days begins. During that time I'll pre-wire all the controls, polish the hardware and generally get all the materials ready for final assembly.
 

 
Update 1/23/2007
Shot the last coats of nitro today on both the body and neck, including satin on the neck. She's resting (curing) comfortably.
 

 
Update 1/25/2007
The baritone was shot with the final round of nitro on Tuesday. It will be curing until the first week of Feb (10 days or so). See the attached pics - shots taken both in and outdoors. These will be the last pics until the guitar is final sanded, polished, assembled and set up. Providing there are no problems, I keep the guitar tuned to pitch for 2 days or so, then re-check and adjust the setup and ship it out.

The nitrocellulose lacquer continues to bring out the figure in the wood for about a week after it's shot with the final coats. It will really come alive when final polished and some chrome, Ebony and polished stainless steel are hung on it. While it's curing, I'll pre-wire all of the electronics I can on a board drilled to the same dimensions as the control layout on the body. The frets will be leveled, polished and the Ebony board will be "painted" with multiple coats of a lemon / olive oil combo that I mix up. When it get to you, it may smell a little like the main course of an Italian dinner. Play it, don't eat it.
 
Body Front inside Body Front outside
Body Back inside Body Back outside
Headstock Headstock Back
Body & Headstock Front
 

 
Update 2/3/2007
Your custom will be final sanded, polished and assembled mid / late next week. Will forward some shots when it's assembled, prior to shipment.
 

 
Update 2/8/2007
Spent the last 2 days polishing, wiring, assembling and setting this monster up. As discussed earlier, I'll hold on to it, make final adjustments on the weekend, and ship it on Monday via next day air.

I'm very happy with the way this instrument plays and sounds. Tonal range, sustain and playability are excellent. I think you'll like it.
 
Finished Overall Front
Finished Overall Back
Finished Body Front in Case
Finished Overall Front Oblique in Case
Finished Overall Front in Case
Finished Overall Front from Headstock in Case
Finished Headstock Back Finished Headstock Front
Finished Headstock Front Oblique Finished Logo Detail
Finished Body Front Finished Controls Detail
Finished Body Back Finished Wiring
 
A new Onyx Forge custom is born!